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Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 10:15 pm
by SteveM
May sound like a dumb question, but the surface tool path would eliminate the pocket path you cut to allow the hold down bolt to go thru, unless you are flipping the board over and running that tool path to make the stock thinner.
If I am not understanding it correctly, please advise me.

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 9:10 am
by 4DThinker
SteveM wrote:May sound like a dumb question, but the surface tool path would eliminate the pocket path you cut to allow the hold down bolt to go thru, unless you are flipping the board over and running that tool path to make the stock thinner.
If I am not understanding it correctly, please advise me.
It has been awhile since I started this thread. As I remember the clamps are cut in two halves, I started with a 3/4" thick board, but surfaced the area I was going to cut clamp halves out of down 1/8" to a final 5/8" thickness. This will leave me with clamps that are 1.25" wide.

Then I cut pockets for the bolt slot at 1/8" starting depth and 5/32" cut depth. Then I cut around the perimeter of both halves.

4D

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 10:29 pm
by SteveM
so the surface tool path is cut before the pocket tool path.
I watched the milling process a few times ant figured that is what must be done.

Thanks for the help

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:28 am
by bill z
I'm guessing that everyone has a preference about what clamp works better for them and what they are doing.

The more I work with small projects, the more my clamps with the knobs get in the way of the vacuum mount. A 4 inch vacuum really hangs out there.

Recently, I have been having much fewer accidents using home made low profile clamps with nylon bolts. I have to have an assortment of lengths but really not that many different lengths.

These clamps are not my idea but I really like them. They hold down and keep the project from sliding at the same time.

I have a different design with steps on the back side to adjust the angle a little more. I made this from ply but others from white maple scraps. I have used these with my predrilled top and T nuts with just the extruded aluminum.

I have also included my dxf of my 8 inch clamp if anyone is interested. I use this and the nesting option in Aspire to make several in one cutting.

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:38 pm
by dvaskie127
4DThinker wrote:
SteveM wrote:May sound like a dumb question, but the surface tool path would eliminate the pocket path you cut to allow the hold down bolt to go thru, unless you are flipping the board over and running that tool path to make the stock thinner.
If I am not understanding it correctly, please advise me.
It has been awhile since I started this thread. As I remember the clamps are cut in two halves, I started with a 3/4" thick board, but surfaced the area I was going to cut clamp halves out of down 1/8" to a final 5/8" thickness. This will leave me with clamps that are 1.25" wide.

Then I cut pockets for the bolt slot at 1/8" starting depth and 5/32" cut depth. Then I cut around the perimeter of both halves.

4D
The file left out the start depth and just gave the cut depth. I think this is what was meant to happen.

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 10:31 am
by 4DThinker
I've revised my design, and since I now have a bed clamp that lets me grip small parts easily I cut the side profile as one piece out of 1.25" thick hardwood. I then mount the clamp flat in my vise and cut the slot for the bolt.
Short and long versions in this file. Separate file for the slots. First set I made out of 1.25" thick northern Ash.

4D

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:28 pm
by markjonesranger
After several broken bits and clamps and bolts that been hit on return to home position, I changed my methods. I put down a mdf 3/4" thick that is at the border but inside the max xy span with nylon bolts recessed and nuts on the Shark Table. Then I glued on a 3/4" piece that is about the same size. I then put on a piece of quarter inch plywood the same size and shoot some 23 gauge pin nails 3/4" long into the plywood to hold it down. This board is to be cut up on all my through cuts. Rarely do I cut all the way through it but it does happen. I also use this same 1/4" underlayment birch plywood for most of my jigs to hold repeat pieces in and use the cam toggles that are held down using a solid brass screw. Sometimes when I am really sure they won't be hit I use a drywall screw in place of the brass screws.

System is working great with no broken bits for many months now. Over 200 projects now on the Shark 510 HD. I have the clamps but seldom use them anymore. Most of the time I am making several copies of the project so I make a template from the largest outside vector and give it a 1/16" offset to allow for sanding and glue. Works great. The 23 gauge pin nailer by M12 works wonderful. I was using a 18 gauge nail but it left a small hole where the 23 gauge pin nails are almost invisible. I have hit both 23 gauge and 18 gauge nails with the 1/8" end mill with no discernable effects.

I enjoy the Shark 510HD as well as the Vetric Vcarve Pro. They make this stuff fun. Here is a link to a youtube video of my table setup while I was making 11 Puzzle boxes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v7iv84mIbc

Re: Wood Clamps. My Design.

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2022 11:05 am
by Kayvon
Those puzzle boxes are beautiful. Nicely done!