Cutting tabs

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Hobbyist1015
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:18 pm

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Hobbyist1015 »

Hi Buc,

Could you please tell me what does FRO stand for? You said you use a smaller bit to mill out a piece, could you tell me what size you use? I myself am having the same exact problem chips is having with the horrible mill marks around the project.

I just started using this machine about a month ago and I have been using only a V bit to make carvings. I noticed when I want to make a sign that has raised letters with a flat background the V bit leaves tiny lines all over the flat area of the piece and takes FOREVER to create. I hear some people use mill bits to do the whole carve out is this true? If so how would the mill bit get the fine detail? I'm sorry for all of the questions here I just want to figure this machine out so bad. I truly appreciate your time sir. Thanks much!

Hobbyist

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Buc
Posts: 548
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:34 pm
Location: Waterford, PA

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Buc »

Hobbyist,

"FRO" - Feed Rate Overide. That is the slider on the shark control panel, which allows you to choose a percentage of the feedrate. Sorry about that, I hate when people do that to me.

I use an .125" dia end mill, instead of the .25".

Yes you can use a flat mill to cut out letters. When you are all set to calculate your tools paths, Click on the create V-Carve/engraving icon. Select the V-bit you want to use, then directly below that you will see 'use flat area clearence tool, check that and select the bit you want to use. It will create (2) seperate tool paths, one for each bit. I usually run the flat area clearence tool first and use the v-bit for finish clearing the areas that the flat tool could not machine.

Buc
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

Thomas A. Edison

The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday

Chips
Posts: 30
Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 7:41 am

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Chips »

Hi everyone,
Just finished putting my Shark Pro back together and found no lose screws or bolts. So, I will live with the issue described above and keep looking for a sweet spot. It’s not all that bad, just thought the machine would be more precise cutting circles. The reason for my concern is I built a CNC machine from plans obtained off the Internet using .5 galvanized pipe and nema 23 motors. That machine would cut perfect 360 without the groves. Of course, it only moved about 6 inches a minute, that’s why I upgraded to a commercial machine. SPEED.
I have been using a .25 em down spiral bit for all applications. Buc, I’m going to order some .125 em up spiral bits and give them a try.
I would like to offer my thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and comments. This has been a learning experience for me even though I still have the issues. Thanks again.
Chips

Hobbyist1015
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:18 pm

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Hobbyist1015 »

Hi Buc,

Thank you kindly for the previous information. I had a chance to play with the FRO and that may help me out in the future once I find a sweet spot. So I have two .25 spiral bits here and I guess I'm confused a little about something. One bit I have is the up cut that I have been using from day one with the shark. At the tip of this bit it is has a flat bottom. Now I also have a down cut spiral bit but it does not have a flat bottom but more of a v shape. I tried to google search "mill bits" but didn't find a big selection at all. I am a huge fan of Whiteside and Freud. I couldn't find anything with the words mill bit for those brands or really any other brands just "spiral bits". I am wondering if it makes a difference if the tip of the router bit is flat or v shaped when it plunges into the wood. I attached a picture here of the bits I am referring to. The one on the left is the down cut and then the up cut.

Also in your post you mentioned that you use a .125 end mill bit which I have been looking for as well but can't find one with 1" cut length just 1/2" cut length. When I mill out a piece I usually cut through stock that's about 1" thick. And I'm not to sure if the 1/2" cut length will work for something like that. Do you have any recommendations where I could find a good .125 bit? Thanks so much Buc I really appreciate you helping me out my friend. Have a wonderful weekend!

Hobbist :)
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Buc
Posts: 548
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:34 pm
Location: Waterford, PA

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Buc »

Hobbyist,

He is a link for information. http://www.precisebits.com/default.htm I have purchased bits from them and I am a satisfied customer. Also I purchased the collect and nut package they offer for the colt router. (.125" and .250")

Here is another link for information. http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/ ... ooling.htm

Buc
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

Thomas A. Edison

The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday

Hobbyist1015
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:18 pm

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Hobbyist1015 »

Hi Buc,

Sorry for the late response but I have been sick and out for a while. I had a chance to look at the links you send and they are very helpful that you so much. With your shark did you receive a maintenance book? I did not and I have no clue how to take care of this bad boy. All I know is your supposed to lube the lead screws with DuPont Teflon dry wax spray. The reason why I ask is today when working with the cnc machine I noticed the box part of the gantry that moves the router up and down likes to flex a little bit when cutting. I'm not sure if they are all that way or maybe I have to adjust something. Do you have any suggestions? Have a wonderful weekend my friend!

Hobbyist :)

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Buc
Posts: 548
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:34 pm
Location: Waterford, PA

Re: Cutting tabs

Post by Buc »

Steve,

I don't remember getting a maintance maunual with my shark. Somewhere on here Joe from KY posted that he has some sort of a shepards hook that he wraps a rag around to wipe the wood dust from the lead screws. I also spray the lead screws and carriage rails with silicon at least once or twice a week if I run my machine everyday. I also sweep it down with the shop vac. Not a good idea to use compressed air to blow off machines, ("the air broom.") You end up blowing dust where you don't want dust.

I like to use sharp tool bits and lower feed rates to keep the flex down to an absolute minimum. I'm retired and in no hurry.
Buc
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

Thomas A. Edison

The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday

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