It's all about the base

[BillK]

Various acrylics are on display here, so just a word or two about the base. Base basics if you will for newbies who might want to try this.

You can see all types of bases here on the forum. Here's my latest broken down to it's simplest form. I had this nice red pine left over molding. It 3.5" wide by about 1.25 thick at the middle. My acrylic is 1/2" thick by 12" wide. I make my slot a pocket cut .520" wide by 12 1/8 long cut with a 1/4" end mill. The pocket is 5/8" deep to accomodate the LED strip. I use the connector clip because the LED strip is a pain to solder. I drill a 1/2" hole with a brad point bit at one end of the slot about 1/2" deep from the slot bottom. Then I flip the base 90 degrees and drill from the side. Slip the wires through and solder onto the female connector. Attach the connector to my plastic mount and press it in. Then stick the LED strip down in the slot bottom. The clip is wider than the pocket, but I remove the covers and shave the sides and it fits nicely.

The acrylic slips in nice, if not just touch up the corner edges with a straight chisel. The acrylic will tilt back with just a slight angle.

[milo30]

I only made one base and that was because it was just a pain for me, trying to figure out how and where to cut everything so that it was tucked inside and hidden from view. I know it was stupid but something about it just kept throwing me off and after measuring and creating the file, I accidentally deleted it and never did another one.

I like the look of your base. Nice and clean and not the normal rectangle.

[Keith Hodges]

Your right, their are a multitude of designs, all fairly similar, all to ones own taste. I have sold hundreds at crafts shows, and one thing I've learned, it's really not the base that attracts people, it's all the pretty lights. I started off cutting two separate pieces, large bottom, small top, in a stepped fashion. Now I just cut them out of a single 2 x 4, straight cut, and route a nice ogee edge on top, and paint it black. Still some staned stands if that's what they want. Mine are 1 1/2 inches thick, and cut a small pocket 1.35 inches deep for the knot I tie in my cord to keep it from pulling out. Then another longer pocket for the light strip, 1 inch deep. Then another pocket 3/4 inch deep for the acrylic to set in, just above the light strip. Most of my acrylic is 3/8 thick, so a little wider allows it to tilt back also, looks much better than standing straight up. Other than the pockets, I'll cut the profile on my tablesaw to speed things up. They can be a time killer. Total cost for a stand, about $3.00. Cut 8 out of an 8 foot 2 x 4, lights, and plug. I used to use the wire connectors, but seemed like most didn't work, so got pretty good soldering the wire to the light strip.

[BillK]

Keith, thanks for the details. That seems like a solid design.

Fir some reason I have a hard time soldering the color LED strings, but am Ok with the white. The clips work well if you get all the glue off the LED strip.

Anyone else care to share their base design?

[Keith Hodges]

Haven't tried the clips in awhile, maybe their making them better now. May just try them again just to see. BTW. I have my stands files saved in case anyone is interested in the various pockets for the lights and acrylic. Very simple, and easy to change if they want to incorporate a different design.

[joesoileau]

I would appreciate the base files which would be a big help to me. Thank you.

[NewAgent45]

I would like to share my stand design with the forum community. I prefer to hide the power supply in the base of the stand. I used the same basic design to CNC machine the stands for 4, 6, 8, 12 and 24 inch Acrylic panels. I also cut the slot to accommodate panels of various thicknesses usually 1/8 or 1/4 inch material. The pictures attached below show my basic design carved in MDF which can be painted. I usually cut my stands in hardwood.

Stand picture 1

Stand picture 2

Stand picture 3

I use a variety of LED components in my stand depending on the specific needs:
Standard lamp power cord with switch
Power supply
LED strip (White, Color, RGB and UV) Note: When UV LED’s are used florescent pens may be used to write on the panel.
LED controller w. remote is used with RGB LED’s and the controller is hidden in the base.

Please visit the illuminated panel section of my website to view a video of showing a 24 inch stand with RGB LEDs. The stand is programed to sequence through 7 colors. Note this stand is actually designed with hangers to hand over head. I reversed the panel for the picture. There is also a 12" stand displayed on my site. There are also additional videos located on YouTube.

http://www.customgraphictransformations.com/main.sc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ8NkSXq-zg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cIHg1MddoM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZGgoW4k3PE

Enjoy!
….. Rod

[BillK]

Rod,

Thanks fir sharing your approach, I like it. Looks like you use the clips also.

Can you share your power supply source?

[NewAgent45]

BillK,

I'm not sure what you mean about using "clips"? Are you talking about my YouTube videos?

I have ordering all my LED components from eBay and Amazon. I ordered the last batch from Amazon see the attached link. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E ... UTF8&psc=1

I have been getting the 12 watt version of the power supply and have used them for all versions of my stand. Even when these sites show the power supply to be in stock, allow plenty of time for delivery. Typically 3 - 4 weeks. I'm finding that most all LED products are manufactured in China. I believe the distributors are getting them from the same sources.

Have a great day!

.......... Rod

[BillK]

Thanks Rod.

I meant the connector clips to the LED strip rather than soldering the leads to the strip.