New CNC Shark Black Diamond

[dmyers]

Tony,

Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at the Porter Cable 2.25hp 895PK.
I agree that I have a lot to study. Does the machine come with the tutorials and demo?
Also, I have an old laptop that I use in my shop and can the software be loaded on the laptop and my computer in the house.
So I can create files and transfer the files with a memory stick?
I'm used to the old Carve Write that you create files then down load to a memory card and plug it into the machine.
I'm getting close to retirement and looking forward to this as another extension to my woodworking.

David

[tonydude]

David,

Check out these. http://support.vectric.com/training-material and also download the demos http://www.vectric.com/downloads/trial-software.html Lots to learn I have my programs on one computer then I transfer them to my laptop thats connected to my shark. Make sure you have your anti virus program off and anything you have running in the background including screen savers while running the shark.

Tony

[bradferguson]

The new shark is all assembled and working fine thanks for all the feed back.
I took my time on the assembly (143 page manual)did everything everyone suggested
There was about .062 bow to the table. Not sure if this going to be a problem at this point. I'll look at correcting later
My ganddauther pushed the run button for the first project a simple sign (Bellas Room) She liked it so much that now has a long list of projects.
I have a lot of questions but for now I'll keep working with the tutorials and keep practicing.

[janz]

Wow sounds like I could use your grand daughter to help me. My new black diamond arrived today in good
condition. After opening 3 boxes and not finding "any" basic instructions hidden amongst the piles of packing
peanuts I found the small note saying the owners manual is on the disc included. Put the disc in the pc and all
that I could get to come up was software (v carve pro and 3d) so I called support and found out the disc is dvd
and my pc only has cd rom capabilities. OK upstairs to where I have a dvd player only to find out I need to have
a pc next to machine that has a dvd reader, and can be connected to internet and control box. Well it was 4 hrs
to this point. What a terrible idea not to give a 5 page basic instruction sheet to at least attach gantry and hook
up controller and then say rest of instructions on dvd disc. Well after moving everything and getting all hooked
up I started loading software, filled out registration forms with license and serial numbers only to find out this
only sends a message for someone to send you another key to use control panel and touch pad. So now waiting
for that and the vetric software to send stuff also. So you get to sit and look at it until someone decides to
send you another license key to open fully, hurry up and pay but wait for your stuff. So far this has been my
worse experience with an expensive tool. Hopefully some day soon I'll be able to use it. So far I would not recommend
to anyone, POS. Can only watch the tutorials so many times without trying machine.

[janz]

BTW I am using a Dewalt 618 router and even though I have the tightening bolt cranked
real hard the router still moves in the holder, not just sideways but up and down also.
How can I take care of that. Considering some friction tape around the router body to
build it up?? Like I said POS, as there is nothing in the mounting the router instructions
on the "dvd" about what to do in this case. Feeling more and more like an expensive
mistake.

[McBuster]

Router Clamp

I produce production parts. Not signs or carvings etc. So, my use is a bit different than most here. But, wood, is wood ...

1) Search here for Sam Cook. He makes a clamp from aluminum and is a bargain.

2) Either the plastic, or Sam's, remove the clamp from the unit and bore the two holes on the forward edge out a bit. Like +1/32". Maybe more. The throughbolts go thru these holes so tightly, the clamp can not be tightened at all. The extra clearance allows for this. And, tighten the back bolts first. Slip in your router, position it. Then tighten the clamp and finally,m the front two bolts.

3) Others have made shims from tape, fine sandpaper etc for the factory version. This too has been helpful.

You are not alone in your disappointment. I too, almost returned it. But, once the factory inadequacies are ironed out, it does work quite nicely. Altho $4k is alot of money, the next best unit by a competitor, is not cheaper, but almost double what you have.

See my post and others for some other corrections. Including loose bolts on the Y Axis gantry down under the bed.

http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3012

Also, placing your unit on a strong, flat, table/bench, will do wonders for keeping "things" flat and true. The plastic frame and guide rods flex and a strong bed underneath will make alot of difference.

Make certain your Z Axis is perpendicular to the table. There is a post here that shows how to test for this, and make adjustments. Also, tighten all the nuts and bolts you can get to. The plastic gives over time and the Factory does not torque them to a spec.

Use silicone lube on the guides and screws often.

Place your clamps along the extrusions. Not across them.

Oh, and be mindful of speeds and feeds rates. As the frame is plastic, and the X Y Z will flex, find the Sweet Spot for your work. I drill holes. Lotsa holes. I find, for me, 15ipm going into plywood about right at somewhere between 16k and 23k for rpm. That seems to work either vertically, or horizontally. And, when horizontal, I go down between 1/8" to maybe 1/4" per swipe.

You will find NWA does produce a good product and is quite usable. And there are many folks here that will help you get a great start. Just, put up with the irritation most have experienced.
.

[baby15]

BTW I am using a Dewalt 618 router and even though I have the tightening bolt cranked
real hard the router still moves in the holder, not just sideways but up and down also.
How can I take care of that. Considering some friction tape around the router body to
build it up?? Like I said POS, as there is nothing in the mounting the router instructions
on the "dvd" about what to do in this case. Feeling more and more like an expensive
mistake.

my router clamp did the same thing. it moved around as the router warmed up an when it was cold did not move at all. had a guy make a aluminum holder for me an tony an now no movement at all. has something to do with the plastic holder

[rungemach]

Baby15 makes a good observation regarding temperature and tightness of the router clamp.
Yet another reason why aluminum is a better material for the router clamps.

The coefficient of thermal expansion for plastics like polyethylene is from 4 to 10 times greater than that of aluminum. So if you have a tight clamp at room temp, the plastic clamp will expand faster than the aluminum router body and will become looser as the temperature increases.

An aluminum clamp will match the thermal expansion, not be slippery, be able to be clamped tighter, and will not exhibit "creep" and loosen over time due to the clamping tension. I can not understand why the factory still continues to use plastic for this part.

[Cory Newman]

Interesting, I hadn't thought of the heat. I noticed mine was lose at the end of a project, and noted it. Next time I went out to do something I went and fiddled with it and it was tight as could be, so I didn't change anything. Now it makes sense.

[janz]

Took care of the loose router fit. Take clamp bolt out, (take out router first) and then remove
the 4 screws holding the clamp to the router mount. Once this is off and screws removed I held
it closed with my fingers and ran it through my band saw following the seam to shave enough off and then sanded off
squigllys and reinstalled. of the 4 screws I left the front 2 loose and installed clamp screw and router.
Once clamped in position I tightened the front 2 screws. The router does not move at all now.