What do I need after buying a new Shark ?
I know a computer, monitor, thumb drive, bits.
What about Mach3 and what else ??
Joe
What does new Shark need?
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joe schoppy
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:50 pm
- Location: Danville, PA 17821
Re: What does new Shark need?
A router. You don't need mach 3. You should get the software for the shark and vcarve software. You might want to upgrade to aspire to create 3d files or 3dcut which just cuts 3d files.
You only need a v-bit and end mill to begin with. Don't go crazy on bits until you know what you will need for your type of projects.
The last things that you will need are a lot of hours learning vcarve software and lots of wood.
Options are the dust boot which comes in handy unless you build an enclosure for the machine and the touch pad is nice to have.
There isn't really any hidden costs that are required to use the machine. Just options that you will probably want to make it simple and cleaner.
You only need a v-bit and end mill to begin with. Don't go crazy on bits until you know what you will need for your type of projects.
The last things that you will need are a lot of hours learning vcarve software and lots of wood.
Options are the dust boot which comes in handy unless you build an enclosure for the machine and the touch pad is nice to have.
There isn't really any hidden costs that are required to use the machine. Just options that you will probably want to make it simple and cleaner.
Re: What does new Shark need?
I would add the touch plate. I use mine all the time and it's very accurate. Milo30 is right about bits. The two he mentioned are a must but don't go crazy. By them as you need them. They are expensive and there's no need to buy them unless you'll use them. Plus it's not such a cost burden all at once. 3dcut came with vcarve pro, but I'd sure like to upgrade to Aspire. I'm saving my money and by Christmas I may just treat myself.
Rick
Re: What does new Shark need?
The Touch Plate. It will give you repeatable results.
The Brush is nice, but do some research as, some are too stiff when coming down on the -Z axis.
Get the Router Clamp that Sam over at Dixie sells. You can get this clamp in over 1" thick billet aluminum for about 50 dollars, which is pretty cheap considering the material. He can be reached at business@dixiebillet.com. Then, make certain the two holes in the front part of the support underneath the clamp have "wiggle room" ie: Mount the new clamp. Tighten down the back two bolts. Mount the router in the clamp. Position. Tighten the front bolt so the router is held stiff. Tighten the two front bolts. Without the oversized holes in front, there is no slack to tighten the clamp itself.
If you will use the extruded bed, make some strips from hard wood, plastic or maybe there are metal ones you can buy. Make them to be fairly tight. Snake these down between the plates for the 36" length. This will stiffen up the bed quite a bit. In the newer series, there is not much room underneath to put aluminum angles/bolts.
Wrench down all the nuts and bolts you can reach. Including removing the bed to get at the Y Axis. Lube the Guide Rails and Screws at the same time. Silicone lube is good.
Jon ...
Woodbury Mn
The Brush is nice, but do some research as, some are too stiff when coming down on the -Z axis.
Get the Router Clamp that Sam over at Dixie sells. You can get this clamp in over 1" thick billet aluminum for about 50 dollars, which is pretty cheap considering the material. He can be reached at business@dixiebillet.com. Then, make certain the two holes in the front part of the support underneath the clamp have "wiggle room" ie: Mount the new clamp. Tighten down the back two bolts. Mount the router in the clamp. Position. Tighten the front bolt so the router is held stiff. Tighten the two front bolts. Without the oversized holes in front, there is no slack to tighten the clamp itself.
If you will use the extruded bed, make some strips from hard wood, plastic or maybe there are metal ones you can buy. Make them to be fairly tight. Snake these down between the plates for the 36" length. This will stiffen up the bed quite a bit. In the newer series, there is not much room underneath to put aluminum angles/bolts.
Wrench down all the nuts and bolts you can reach. Including removing the bed to get at the Y Axis. Lube the Guide Rails and Screws at the same time. Silicone lube is good.
Jon ...
Woodbury Mn
Jon ...
Woodbury Mn
Woodbury Mn
Re: What does new Shark need?
Dust collection, Dust collection and lets see, DUST COLLECTION!
Re: What does new Shark need?
More clamps than the 2 that come with the Shark.
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joe schoppy
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:50 pm
- Location: Danville, PA 17821
Re: What does new Shark need?
Thanks to all of you. That makes me feel a bit better knowing that I'm on the right track.
Joe
Joe
Re: What does new Shark need?
Definitely dust collection, v-bits and endmills.
We skipped the touch plate because we felt like it was an unnecessary gadget and could better spend the money on bits or materials for a tank. We use a feeler gauge with really good results - we've got that down to a 'T' now.
And more clamps, absolutely. We also cut some 3x4x.25 slotted pieces to go under the butt of the clamps to distribute the clamping pressure on the table.
4DThinker posted some files for some great clamps in this thread http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.p ... lit=clamps
The one other thing you'll need a lot of is patience.
We skipped the touch plate because we felt like it was an unnecessary gadget and could better spend the money on bits or materials for a tank. We use a feeler gauge with really good results - we've got that down to a 'T' now.
And more clamps, absolutely. We also cut some 3x4x.25 slotted pieces to go under the butt of the clamps to distribute the clamping pressure on the table.
4DThinker posted some files for some great clamps in this thread http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.p ... lit=clamps
The one other thing you'll need a lot of is patience.
Karen