Touch Plate!

[rusty]

Does this mean the logic is not in the plate itself, but somewhere else? Would be nice to see some sales info or video on this.

-Eric

The plate is simply a bar of what looks to be aluminum, with a hole drilled in one end to receive the banana jack plug from the provided cable. All that happens in use is that when the bit touches the plate a circuit is closed to tell the software it has touched. The jack on the controller is a simple 1/8" stereo jack also used for the scan probe. 2 leads come out that when touched together close the circuit. No logic or circuitry at all in what you get for your $90.

Just found this thread and I am very interested because I want to make my own touch plate. You said the jack that plugs into the controller is a 1/8" stereo jack. That means there are three leads with two black insulating bands between them on the tip (for sound these 3 leads would be left, right and ground). Do you know which two of the three leads I would need to "touch together" to close the circuit? I don't want to guess wrong and fry something n the controller (if that is even possible).

[4DThinker]

More than just having a touch plate, the controller software needs to have a registration code for it before the option to use the plate will show up. One way NextWave makes a living from their efforts, but also to keep someone from stealing your plate and simply using it on their own Shark.

While it shouldn't be hard to make one, it won't just work when you plug it in.

[Consultingwoodworker]

I was really into getting the touch plate until they added the 'step' increment to the controller. Now I can set the depth by the thousandsth when I change bits without the plate.

Ralph

[milo30]

I was really into getting the touch plate until they added the 'step' increment to the controller. Now I can set the depth by the thousandsth when I change bits without the plate.

Ralph

I've tried several methods to set the height of the bit. Unlike the dust boot that I rarely use or the probe that I really never use, I use the touchplate on every project. I'll never buy another machine that doesn't have one. I can get it set so fast with it now that I don't mind using multiple bits on a project unlike before when I tried to do it with just one as much as I could. Best $89 I have spent on the shark yet.

[tonydude]

That was the best thing they came out with. I love mine.

Tony

[Consultingwoodworker]

I used to install, train, service and support Multicams backin the late '90's, I know well how easy a touch plate is to use, but honestly have felt a lot less need since the Step command was added.

I set bits by lowering them until a piece of paper drags slightly under the bit, then set zero. After a bit change, I reset with the same technique. This will get me well within 0.001" in about 30 seconds and frankly my machine tolerance is no better than that.

Most of the work I do is not carving and decorative, but making parts and prototypes for my shop or my clients, so accurate changes between bits is critical. I will probably get the touch plate, but my point is that without the step command I'd have already bought one.

Ralph

[BillK]

I'm with you Ralph. I use a small sheet cut out from bubble jet transparency film which I can see through. I drive down in slow jog until just before touchdown then go to .010 step until my film won't move. Then I raise up one .010 step, shift to .001 and move down to wear I can pull the film but not push it. Takes less than a minute and its highly repeatable.

I have also tried a cheap continuity meter with a buzzer and a Jo block. It works great but I haven't made the wiring permanent yet so I use the transparency film 99% of the time.

[jrmoore]

Okay I’ve held off for a long time before asking this question. I read somewhere, and I cannot find it again, that to set Z0:
1. Place a bit in the router collet and lightly tighten it, just enough so that the bit does not fall out.
2. Slowly lower the Z axis, via the slow/step mode in the control panel, until the bit begins to ride up into the collet.
3. Tighten the collet as usual.
4. Set Z=0 in the control panel.

I have used this technique many times successfully but I am curious why no one else has mentioned this quick set up procedure. Being fairly new to the CNC Shark world perhaps I am missing an obvious point, so fire away – I can take criticism (sort of)!

[milo30]

I used it before going to the touchpad. Works but you can still accidentally move your bit while tightening.

[jeb2cav]

I am with Bill and Ralph on this. I also do not recommend the collet method - but frankly if it works for you and you're satisfied with it - there's nothing wrong with it per se. Some collets will pull the bit 'up' as you tighten it more than others.

I also have a touch plate - and I am able to repeat with it. Using it in my use case has some potential pitfalls. I think in the end - a common thread with 'successful' methods is a consistent implementation of them (along with things like a square table and cutting surface, a bit with known dimensions, the list goes on...). But for zeroing, consistent implementation of the method you choose to use is important.