Bob,
I ran the program twice. First in pine and then Cedar.
I ran both programs twice.
After running the cedar the first time, It appeared like I did not pick up all the detail,
I ran the program again and offset "Z" zero to go ,025" deeper.
The cedar came out okay but the cedar some of the wood came out as I sanded.
Bob
Six Pointed Star Inlay
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: Six Pointed Star Inlay
Bob,
Actually, your two samples of fishbones look pretty good from here.
The hardest step in inlay work for me, is to wait a minimum of 24 hours for the glue to dry. I posted the file at 7:32 am today, you posted your results at 2:20 pm today.
Seven hours is not enough time for glue to dry! Also be sure to cover both pieces of wood with glue, but don't over glue. When doing fine pieces, I don't even do a test fit, because I don't want to risk damaging the parts. And, If you were using superglue, it might have set up before being completely assembled. I also like to use a LOT of pressure with 2-3 clamps for even a small job like this.
By the way, If you are doing several samples from different kinds of wood try switching parts from the two different ones to see the inlay more clearly.
One more thought...Don't examine the parts too closely. Just glue and clamp them. They will work! There have been times when I would have guaranteed that the inlay would not work, but it did.
Bob
Actually, your two samples of fishbones look pretty good from here.
The hardest step in inlay work for me, is to wait a minimum of 24 hours for the glue to dry. I posted the file at 7:32 am today, you posted your results at 2:20 pm today.
Seven hours is not enough time for glue to dry! Also be sure to cover both pieces of wood with glue, but don't over glue. When doing fine pieces, I don't even do a test fit, because I don't want to risk damaging the parts. And, If you were using superglue, it might have set up before being completely assembled. I also like to use a LOT of pressure with 2-3 clamps for even a small job like this.
By the way, If you are doing several samples from different kinds of wood try switching parts from the two different ones to see the inlay more clearly.
One more thought...Don't examine the parts too closely. Just glue and clamp them. They will work! There have been times when I would have guaranteed that the inlay would not work, but it did.
Bob
"Focus"
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Re: Six Pointed Star Inlay
Bob,
The cedar did look pretty good. I did use titebond 2 glue. Maybe that is my problem I am not letting it dry long enough.
I would like the inlay to go further into the pocket though. I have been unable to rationalize how to get deeper penetration.
I do appreciate your advice.
Thanks again,
Bob
The cedar did look pretty good. I did use titebond 2 glue. Maybe that is my problem I am not letting it dry long enough.
I would like the inlay to go further into the pocket though. I have been unable to rationalize how to get deeper penetration.
I do appreciate your advice.
Thanks again,
Bob
Re: Six Pointed Star Inlay
Bob
You're welcome.
The numbers I use for cutting depths were the result of some guesswork, and trial and error. They seem to work pretty well, but keep on trying different combinations.
Please keep us posted on further work.
Bob
You're welcome.
The numbers I use for cutting depths were the result of some guesswork, and trial and error. They seem to work pretty well, but keep on trying different combinations.
Please keep us posted on further work.
Bob
"Focus"
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
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- Posts: 92
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:07 am
Re: Six Pointed Star Inlay
With your preferred cut depth, I am wondering if one should be able to use 1/8" thick veneer (like that) glued to an MDF plate for the inlay. That would save a bit of money for exotic woods. Did you try that or any reason this should not work? Might be easier to remove, too.Bob wrote:Bob
You're welcome.
The numbers I use for cutting depths were the result of some guesswork, and trial and error. They seem to work pretty well, but keep on trying different combinations.
Please keep us posted on further work.
Bob
Re: Six Pointed Star Inlay
Jerry,
Your idea sounds like a slick way to save wood. I have not tried this method before, but there seems to be no reason why it should not work.
Thanks for sharing your thought.
Bob
Your idea sounds like a slick way to save wood. I have not tried this method before, but there seems to be no reason why it should not work.
Thanks for sharing your thought.
Bob
"Focus"
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)