I'm installing a brand new stiffer-and-interlocking table on my Shark HD 2.0.
This seems the best time to get everything exactly square from the bottom up.
Turns out the Y-Axis is not straight. The picture shows how I am measuring the Y-Axis.
The new table extrusions are resting parallel to the X-Axis on the guide bars for the Y-Axis.
The reference extrusions that are parallel to the Y-Axis rest ONLY on the front and back cross pieces.
The cross pieces just in front of the gantry are .032 below the reference pieces.
Did the bar start out bent? Or did it bend while it was being assembled to the plastic parts.
I'm doing Y-Axis tiling for moldings. The bends in the Y-Axis are messing with the Z depth of the cuts.
Do I have to resort to shimming between the long Y-Axis supports and the bottom of the CNC?
I've read somewhere that NextWave has instructions for how to get everything aligned.
I cannot find those articles or instructions on the web. A link would be helpful. Thanks.
Roger
How do I square up the Y-Axis
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
How do I square up the Y-Axis
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- set up for measuring Y axis
Re: How do I square up the Y-Axis
If I understand the issue correctly, you are saying the Y axis bearing bars are not straight, but dip down in the center by around 32 thousandths.
This could be happening due to the center of the bearing rod being pulled down to the base by the center support. NWA chose not to use continuously supported bearings, and supports the bearing rods on the ends and center ( on the Sharks I have worked on.)
This misalignment may be due to a badly machined center support (too short). or possibly a less than flat table that allows the center of the machine to sag down.,
The Shark needs a flat surface to sit on, if the surface sags or has a twist in it, the machine can twist out of alignment as the Shark base is not that rigid.
If your surface is flat, you could put a shim between the bearing center support blocks and the top of the plastic Shark base to bring each bearing rod back into a straight condition.
While you are doing this you will probably want to redo the end mounting brackets that hold the table top to the machine base as the factory mounting bars are quite bendable and are often misaligned. Many users are have gone with aluminum bar or angle for these mounting bars.
This could be happening due to the center of the bearing rod being pulled down to the base by the center support. NWA chose not to use continuously supported bearings, and supports the bearing rods on the ends and center ( on the Sharks I have worked on.)
This misalignment may be due to a badly machined center support (too short). or possibly a less than flat table that allows the center of the machine to sag down.,
The Shark needs a flat surface to sit on, if the surface sags or has a twist in it, the machine can twist out of alignment as the Shark base is not that rigid.
If your surface is flat, you could put a shim between the bearing center support blocks and the top of the plastic Shark base to bring each bearing rod back into a straight condition.
While you are doing this you will probably want to redo the end mounting brackets that hold the table top to the machine base as the factory mounting bars are quite bendable and are often misaligned. Many users are have gone with aluminum bar or angle for these mounting bars.
Re: How do I square up the Y-Axis
rungemach,
Thanks for your comments. And yes, your understanding is correct.
The bearing rod center support for the HD Pro 2.0 is about 23" long leaving a gap of about 4 inches to the support at each end.
The center support is also made of plastic as is the bottom plate.
Sag is in fact happening. The bearing rod, support and the bottom all sag from the weight of the gantry.
By shimming in several places between the bottom plate and the Rockler cart I'm using as a base, I can get the bearing rods straight.
To get to really solid support, I've ordered 4" tall aluminum I-Beams to provide support directly under the full length of both Y axis bearing rods.
With a little shimming under one end of one of the I-Beams I can reestablish a strong and flat support whereever I roll the cart.
Some additional information. The new table top consists of 14 new interlocking extrusions I got as a kit from NextWave Automation.
The kit has aluminum end brackets! Turns out they are transitioning to aluminum angle for the end mounting brackets for some products.
The photo shows two of these extrusions. They are 1 inch thick and are individually about twice as stiff as the blue t-rail originally supplied.
In addition, you'll notice they have a tongue and groove arrangement that couples the extrusions to each other. This is really important.
More on this later when I've finished the upgrade.
Thanks for your comments. And yes, your understanding is correct.
The bearing rod center support for the HD Pro 2.0 is about 23" long leaving a gap of about 4 inches to the support at each end.
The center support is also made of plastic as is the bottom plate.
Sag is in fact happening. The bearing rod, support and the bottom all sag from the weight of the gantry.
By shimming in several places between the bottom plate and the Rockler cart I'm using as a base, I can get the bearing rods straight.
To get to really solid support, I've ordered 4" tall aluminum I-Beams to provide support directly under the full length of both Y axis bearing rods.
With a little shimming under one end of one of the I-Beams I can reestablish a strong and flat support whereever I roll the cart.
Some additional information. The new table top consists of 14 new interlocking extrusions I got as a kit from NextWave Automation.
The kit has aluminum end brackets! Turns out they are transitioning to aluminum angle for the end mounting brackets for some products.
The photo shows two of these extrusions. They are 1 inch thick and are individually about twice as stiff as the blue t-rail originally supplied.
In addition, you'll notice they have a tongue and groove arrangement that couples the extrusions to each other. This is really important.
More on this later when I've finished the upgrade.
- Attachments
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- New NextWave Interlocking Extrusions
Re: How do I square up the Y-Axis
AZRoger,
The kit you got from NW. What all was in it and what was the cost?
The kit you got from NW. What all was in it and what was the cost?
Re: How do I square up the Y-Axis
The kit came with 14 extrusions 3 feet long, two aluminum angle brackets, and 28 short 1/4-20 bolts and J-nuts.
It was $300 plus shipping which for me was about $30.
It ships "assembled" with all the extrusions bolted to the angle brackets at both ends.
However, both angle brackets faced the same way and they weren't spaced properly for direct assembly to the Shark.
I made new angle brackets with adjustability slots in place of round holes. Reasons for slots later.
I intend to send a detailed case study to NextWave Automation with the specs for the alternate bracket.
I'll post it here too.
Roger
It was $300 plus shipping which for me was about $30.
It ships "assembled" with all the extrusions bolted to the angle brackets at both ends.
However, both angle brackets faced the same way and they weren't spaced properly for direct assembly to the Shark.
I made new angle brackets with adjustability slots in place of round holes. Reasons for slots later.
I intend to send a detailed case study to NextWave Automation with the specs for the alternate bracket.
I'll post it here too.
Roger
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