Glad you got response from support. Sounds like you had a bad power supply.
For the future, in addition to checking the LEDs, you can also get a more useful idea of power-related problems using a voltmeter to verify that power is actually reaching the components. Be freakin' careful, mind what you're testing, and don't electrocute yourself. I tend to use insulated alligator-style clips, and only turn on the power AFTER they're in place and I'm not part of the circuit.
You just need to work your way in. For each step, if you get the expected result, move to the next step. If you don't get the expected result, you have just found the broken part.
1) Check that 120VAC is on the end of the cord you're plugging into the box. Yes? Step 2. No? Bad cord or outlet.
2) Check that 120VAC appears on the wires inside the box. Bad? Fuse
UNPLUG the box
3) Turn on the power switch. You unplugged the box, right?!?!?!? Measure the resistance of the switch. It should be quite close to zero, but is often a few 10ths of an ohm. No? Bad switch.
PLUG it back in, and turn on the power switch.
3) Check that 120VAC is showing up at the power supply and the solid-state relay? No? Wiring maybe loose or broken.
4) Check that the right DC voltage (20? 24VDC? I forget which one this one has) is coming OUT of the power supply? No? Bad power supply
5) Check that the right DC voltage is showing up at the inputs terminals of the controller board. No? Loose wiring or short in the board.
If you're not getting DC from the power supply, you can determine if it's the PS or the circuit board by....
UNPLUG the box
1) Unscrew the red DC wire at the controller board and pull it out so it's not contacting anything (except your probe clip)
PLUG it back in, and turn on the power switch
2) Check that 24VDC is showing up at the output of the power supply. Yes? Then there's a short on the controller board and it's overloading the power supply. No? Bad power supply
That short theoretically could be on the board or in the connectors/motors. Resolving that one requires more advanced troubleshooting and being able to find the right pins to check, so I'd say send it in if you're uncomfortable proceeding further.
You get the idea. Be cautious and careful and never hold the system with both hands when it's open and energized. But seeing how the system is or isn't working when it's actually plugged in often gives more useful information than just checking the fuses and LEDs
Also, the power supply in the unit I have looks to be just a normal switching power supply like this line:
http://www.amazon.com/VELLEMAN-PSIN1502 ... supply+24V
Make sure you get the exactly same output voltage, and at least as much output current....and that it will fit in the box
. If you're out of warranty or whatever reason, replacing the power supply is often much easier...just be very careful to verify you're connecting the wires in the CORRECT positions, not necessarily the same positions. Don't assume the power supply connections are the same.
Best,
Thom