x and y zeroing to a jig and to the table

[adowty]

Hi guys,

I am still building jigs and cut files for my big mondo project using a shark pro hd.
One issue I am having is finding the x and y zeros while using a large bit. It seems to be somewhat subject to interpretation.
i have taken to aligning a center line drawn on my jig board with the little crack between the center two rockler rails.
If this line is truly perpendicular to the x axis and it is truly in the center of the table, I should be able to jog my router all the way to one side or the other (until it won't go any further) and then jog over some specific number to easily, consistently and repeatedly find the center of my jig board.

My question is this. What are the exact travel distances of the x and y axises of the Shark Pro HD? ...or do they vary by some nano amount?
further, is it hurting my machine to go all the way to the edges like that?

Thanks,


andy

[Wolffie1]

I usually jog the router fast to almost the edge of the table, lower the router to very close to the table without touching it, then jog it in tiny movements until it is at the very edge.
Set the axis to 0 then lift the bit and send the it to the other side in the same manner as before.
Note the distance and divide it by half, then return the bit that distance then set the 0.
To be absolutely sure I have the centre, I send it from 0 to both edges and make sure the travelling distance is the same, if not, I jog it gradually until they are.
I have actually cut a tiny dimple in the table so that I can always return to the exact same place when I need the exact centre.
If I need to use a spoilboard or make a jig, I zero the router first, before I mount anything on the table.

Cheers
Wolffie

[adowty]

Hey Thanks,

That was just about how I was going to go about it.
I just thought I would ask to see if someone would give me a standard number.

Andy

[Wolffie1]

You can get an approximate number which is half the length and breath of the table.
However, as the table can be mounted in different positions, a little bit forward a little bit back, every unit is different hence nobody but you can get the exact position.

I, for example, didn't like the wasted space in the rear and that the router moved past the table in the front, so I shifted mine forward, level with the base at the back, giving me more workspace.
In the process, I also managed to move it a bit sideways, so I had to find the centre again.

Cheers
Wolffie

[adowty]

Thanks.

I would love to modify my table and double the length to 50 inches on the Y axis. But that will happen later.
Right now I'm just trying to get a consistent and easy way to keep things in line.
We actually bought a laser level that we align to the little crack on the table and then mount our jig board with the center line on the laser.
It seems that it will work fairly well. Lasers are cool.

A.D.

[4DThinker]

When I'm using a large diameter bit one trick I use to set X/Y to a specific point is to draw a circle the diameter of the bit instead of just a simple x or + or point. I keep a circle template within reach of my Shark just for this purpose. With a circle drawn around the 0,0 point it is much easier to jog/align the edges of the bit to that circle than the center of the large bit to the circle's center. A sharp pencil is recommended for best results.