shim table?

[janz]

Black diamond, when tried to carve a long thin (14" x 2") I mounted my material along the
y axis. Top part of carve almost seemed to disappear as machine cut from y- towards y+.
Checked the end of tool to top of table and found that the front of machine (both sides)
is .020 higher than back (y+) of table. all across the x axis are all nicely level. can I correct
this by installing a plastic shim across the back of the table between the bottom of table and
the self it rests on. Is there an easier way?

[rsetina]

My HD tapers from the middle to the 4 corners. The lowest corner is .033 lower, and the others are almost as bad. I decided to use this way to add a spoil board so I can still use the t tracks of the original table. My first thought was to shim the table too, but adding shims did nothing to level the table in my situation. It may work for you if it's high on one side only but a spoil board would be the best way to level table. Since I will be using the HD for lots of woodworking project now and after I retire I bought a Mini Insert Spoil Board Surfacing Bit. Expensive, but over time it will pay for itself over and over again.

I use this idea for a spoil board. Oak slats.

[milo30]

Wow, they are proud of those bits. I just bought one similar to this, http://www.tools-plus.com/freud-12-172. ... =FRE12-172
1 1/2" diameter with a 1/4" shank for around $20-25 and use it to skim my spoil board. Personally, I'd rsetina's recommendation for the cheapest and easiest way to fix your problem. Then, you could always spend $150 and get the new software that is for that issue but it'd be more work in the long run, continually having to set all those points.

If you want to correct it and still use your aluminum table, run a search and there are several posts where people have found different ways to build the table to function properly.

[rsetina]

I didn't know Freud made a 1.5 inch bit like that. Oh well, money spent and I'm sure I'll use it enough to pay for itself. The nice thing is that the cutters have 4 sides so I'm hoping it will last me a good long time. Now I have to figure out how to enter it in my database. I suppose it could be entered as an end mill. It would just be entered as having a huge shank. LOL

[monitoringpost]

Now I have to figure out how to enter it in my database. I suppose it could be entered as an end mill. It would just be entered as having a huge shank. LOL

I use this very same bit Rick and it works flawlessly. I've exported the tool from my database for your use - hope it helps!

[milo30]

I didn't know Freud made a 1.5 inch bit like that. Oh well, money spent and I'm sure I'll use it enough to pay for itself. The nice thing is that the cutters have 4 sides so I'm hoping it will last me a good long time. Now I have to figure out how to enter it in my database. I suppose it could be entered as an end mill. It would just be entered as having a huge shank. LOL

You hardly use them compared to other bits so they do last forever. Beside the mdf table, I use it when a board surface needs to be planed. So much faster than the 1/4" bit. You are taking off such a small amount, even the colt router has no problem using it.

[rsetina]

Now I have to figure out how to enter it in my database. I suppose it could be entered as an end mill. It would just be entered as having a huge shank. LOL

I use this very same bit Rick and it works flawlessly. I've exported the tool from my database for your use - hope it helps!

Craig

I'm trying to find out how to import the tool zip file into Aspire but I can't seem to figure out how to do it. Could you explain how? I'll keep looking.

Edit: I found it. Thanks

[janz]

After looking at all the different mods folks made to get their tables co planar to the router I went with
the 1/8' x 1.5 aluminum angle and then used may router with a rounded bit to zero all corners and mid sections.
As far as I can tell the most I'm off anywhere is .003. Recut the design that made me notice a problem along
the y axis.
Here is the first cut that had me wondering. The one on the right was before and the one on the left is after
table mods.

This is a pic of aluminum angle supporting table.

[janz]

Sorry still trying to figure out the picture thing.

[Consultingwoodworker]

Not having a 1/2" collet capability, I just surface my spoil board with a standard 1/2" mortising bit. The cut is VERY shallow, typically 1/32" or less, so I increase the overlap percentage and set the speed to 100 ipm. Takes less than 20 minutes to surface the entire 22" square spoil board.

The spoil board being MDF, this is one time I use my shop built dust boot and vacuum!

Ralph