Bit questions

Anything and everything CNC-Shark-related

Moderators: ddw, al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon

Post Reply
Steve Wojo
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:06 pm
Location: Ulster County NY

Bit questions

Post by Steve Wojo »

Im still a rookie here, had my shark for about a month, doing some basic stuff.

Im looking to expand my bit catalogue a little, Im wondering what are some MUST HAVE bits I can spend a few bucks from my tax return on.

Im looking at the Amana replaceable tips set 30 and 60 degree first and foremost.

I do have a question, if doing raised letterng type of sign what bit is used for the first pass? I have an 1/8th straight bit Ive messed with, just wondering what other options are out there.

Thanks in advance and keep the great ideas coming in!!

Steve
Ive had amnesia for as long as I can remember

milo30
Posts: 553
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:21 pm

Re: Bit questions

Post by milo30 »

Everyone's must have are different depending on what they do with the machine. I imagine for most the basic is 1/4" endmill, 90 deg .5" vbit, maybe a 60 degree vbit and a ball nose. I really never do 3d stuff and never use the ball nose. I use 1/4, 1/8" endmill as well as the 2 vbits mentioned. My 60 degree is a 1/4". I also have started doing acrylic so I picked up a diamond drag bit that I love.

Trying to buy different bits in advance can lead to having a large collection that never get used. It wouldn't be idea but I could almost get by with one end mill, one vbit and the diamond drag for almost everything that I do if I had to. If you want to do 3d stuff, therre are other bits that you would want. I'll let someone who does more of that work talk about them. I know people use the amana that you are talking about and love them.

Steve Wojo
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:06 pm
Location: Ulster County NY

Re: Bit questions

Post by Steve Wojo »

Ive been going through a ton of sites, what are the tapered ball nose for? Are they for 3D stuff? As much as I want Aspire its not happening soon so instead its a few quality bits.

Thanks in advance again.

And for the record as of now Im doing some basic Welcome type signs, lots of line art. I really like he raised lettering and what it offers hence my questions regarding best bits for that application.

Steve
Ive had amnesia for as long as I can remember

tonydude
Posts: 1581
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:23 am
Location: Buffalo,NY

Re: Bit questions

Post by tonydude »

Steve,

I do a lot of 3d work and these are the bits I use. 1/8"= .125 ball nose bit, 1/32"= .0625 ball nose bit. I use aspire for 3d stuff and you can also use cut3d. I use a 1/4"= .25 end mill for roughing pass first, then a 1/8'= .125 ball nose bit for finishing pass or sometimes a 1/32"= .0625 for finishing depending on how much detail there is.

Tony
Buffalo,NY

"What will matter is not what you bought but what you built; not what you got, but what you gave”

Aspire 11.015, photo vcarve, cnc mako shark extended bed with the new upgraded HD 5 gantry with Led pendent.

ohiococonut
Posts: 229
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:01 pm
Location: Central Ohio

Re: Bit questions

Post by ohiococonut »

I also use small tapered ball nose bits for fine detail.
Actually 1/16"=.0625 & 1/32"=.03125

The 1/32" bit I reserve for small 3D carvings that require very fine detail.

I generally try to size my bits by the amount of material I need to removed and use the largest one possible.
Del

"It's not what you take when you leave this world behind you, it's what you leave behind you when you go."

James45
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:17 pm
Location: Williamsville,NY

Re: Bit questions

Post by James45 »

tapered ball nose primary reason is for stiffness and if doing tapered walls. Originally from mold making

User avatar
Consultingwoodworker
Posts: 333
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 7:37 am
Location: Nashville area
Contact:

Re: Bit questions

Post by Consultingwoodworker »

I like using the tapered ball nosed bits for inlays. They leave a very slightly tapered edge on the pocket, and on the inlay. If you cut your inlay upside down, then the parts fit with a 'scarf joint' which shows much less than a straight sided joint.

As far as the bit selection goes, buy what you need as you need it. That will usually give you the best value. Buying sets or a list of bits often means you have a few bits that get used all the time and several that collect dust.

Ralph

Post Reply