Router will not power on. Why?

[IDBD]

Hi,

I have a Porter Cable router with Shark HD4.
I plug the router into the CNC control box.

I want the router to turn on when I start my job and I want the router to be able to be turned off when the job finishes.

The problem is my router isn't turning on when I start my job, and I have the on switch turn on on the router.

Can some one tell me what I'm doing wrong? Or what I need to do to get this to work?

As always..thank you in advance.

[BobA]

Plug into control panel is correct. You must turn switch on top of router. When run is activated return starts automatically. I always turn the router switch off when I change tool on router. Make sure you always turn router on before you activate run.

[IDBD]

I have the Switch turned on on the router.. but when I start the project the router isn't turned on automatically by the controller..
What would be the issue?

[Kayvon]

Does the router start up when you plug it into a standard outlet, rather than the control panel?

If not, you have a router problem, of course, and maybe need to replace the brushes.

If it does start up in a standard outlet, you have either a control panel problem or a G-code problem. Open the .tap g-code in a file editor (rename it to .txt and use notepad if you don't have anything else) and verify it contains the command M3 or M03 towards the top. If that command is missing, it's likely a post processor problem. If the command is present, the control panel's relay isn't working. Could be a loose wire or a bad relay.

[WoodEraser]

Some Porter Cable's are not compatible with controller to turn on/off.
Check spec it will tell you what models.

[SteveM]

Make sure the router is plug in in real tight on the control box socket. My Bosch had the same problem till I pushed on the plug and everything was fine after that.
Sounds stupid, but it worked for me.

[bill z]

The power out plug in the controller has a fuse (15 amp fast blow, if I remember correct). If your router pulls more than 15 amp on startup. Simple to test. Plug a drop light into the controller and run your G-Code.

If the fuse is blown, just replacing it may not solve your problem, it will just blow again.

If your router pulls more amps than 15, it may be the brushes.

One work around is mentioned in this posting:
http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.p ... lay#p28339
where it talks about adding a relay to the back of your controller.

Just some more ideas.

[Rando]

Assuming you haven't already solved it, just as a sanity check, you might want to take a look near the top of the TAP file for a M03, or M3 block. That turns on the router. If there's a M05 or M5, that turns it off. If for some bizarre reason that's missing, that couple be (part of?) the problem.

Regards,

Thom

[IDBD]

Thank you!
I will check it out.

[Rando]

You know, one other thing that's **possible** but not as likely, is that the solid-state relay inside the controller somehow got fried. They're not very expensive, maybe $10 on Amazon, but your warranty situation might determine your course of action. The problem is, if that IS the problem, there's not a lot of things you can check that are any different than plugging in your router.

Wait just a minute...have you lately tried plugging in the router to a separate, regular (non-switched) plug to see if it still works? I wonder if the router maybe blew a fuse/tripped a breaker, but you can't see that because it's around the backside toward the z-axis carriage?

Right...the amazon search link ("20A solid state relay 120v") ....

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... relay+120v

I seem to recall my controller's SSR going out at one point, 'cause I have an "extra" one of them hanging around, and I wouldn't have an extra one unless I had to order a replacement, 'cause I somehow fried the original one. I'll typically buy a spare for the **next** time I fry it . At the time I was kinda hacking on the controller box .

Thom