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Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 10:51 am
by weh385
I am new to the Shark in our club shop. It has been in use for a couple years. We have a standard water cooled spindle that came from New wave with the machine.

Everything seems to be in allignment and cuts square with the exception of the obvious tracks when doing cuts along the x axis as in the bottom of a pocket or a smoothing cut on the surface of a workpiece.

I understand what tramming is and basicaly how it is accomplished. However, I hesitate to attempt to put in shims without some help in the actual process.

Does anyone have diagrams, pictures, etc. of the procedure to accomplish this?


Re: Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2019 6:33 pm
by bill z
Are you saying that your Z axis is not perpendicular to your table top and making some sort of saw tooth impression at the bottom after several passes with a end mill bit?

The process depends on how much it is out and what direction. You mentioned X axis.

How about some pictures and indicate the orientation of the piece.

Re: Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 7:10 pm
by weh385
The Z axis is out of square with the base of the table front to back. That, I believe is called the nod. It is making typical lines in the bottom of pocket cuts that go along the x axis. I know what needs to be done. I just need to find which screws/bolts/plates I must loosen and shim to accomplish the adjustment.

The tilt, on the other hand, is ok.

I would rather have some input from someone who has done this rather than just taking off things without a plan since the vendor has not provided us with any assembly documentation for this.


Re: Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:49 pm
by gizmogris
I had the same problem with my HD4. I added a water-cooled spindle and found that the unit was significantly out of tram in the "nod" direction (front to back).

When you look at the head, there are three components or plates. The upper and lower clamp the router or spindle, and the middle is the actual support. There are 4 vertical bolts that hold the three together. I removed the front two bolts, and put shim material between the upper and middle plates, then reinstalled the bolts. In my setup, only the upper plate holds the spindle; I purchased the spindle clamp from NWA and it replaced the upper router clamp.

To get the best results, you want the shim material to be of the appropriate thickness. You can buy an assortment of steel shim flat sheets on Amazon or MSC ( My package is from Precision Brand (, and has steel sheets (6' x 12") from 0.001" to 0.015". You'll also need a metal snip to cut about a 1" x 4" strip, and to cut notches to fit around the bolts.

After inserting the strip, install a dial indicator in the collet and measure the front and back readings off the aluminum table. I would not measure off the spoilboard. Then add or remove trim strips as needed.

It's pretty much trial and error, but I got mine down to about 0.001" nod error, which I think more than adequate.


Re: Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 10:46 pm
by weh385
Thanks. I have been putting off this process.

I thought that the procedure you describe was the appropriate one. Now I must get at it since toy season is coming.


Re: Tramming Shark

PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 8:08 am
by bill z
To get it right in all 360 degrees, you should use a tool that attaches to your spindle / router that will measure just how much difference you have from front to back. Something that you know is square with the spindle.

Here is just one elaborate solution --> There are several on this forum.

However, something as simple as a stick on a straight shaft that you can swivel or turn.

I have a much older shark and I had to file out the adjustments to get that little extra to make it work.

Yes, it may be frustrating but you will always learn something from tuning and adjusting these machines.

Let us know how the results of your work.