Hi
I had a problem where the coupling between the X stepper moter and the drive screw came loose. The problem showed as wavey cuts when they should have been stright.I could move the router mount back and forth by hand about 1/4 in. I loosened the set screws in the coupling between the stepper motor and the drive screw, moved the drive screw as far as I could away from the stepper motor and retightened the set screws. Everything seems ok now. I can't move the router mount by hand anymore and the machine cuts stright. Does anyone know of anything else I should have done?
DickL
Coupling cams loose
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: Coupling cams loose
Hi Dick,
The only other advice I've received on this is using gorilla wood glue (not the poly glue, but the wood glue) as a form of lock tight on these bolts. Use of red or blue locktight is also not (NOT) advised. On mine (Shark ProPlus) the lead screws have a flat side to them where you want to set the locking nuts against as well.
The only other advice I've received on this is using gorilla wood glue (not the poly glue, but the wood glue) as a form of lock tight on these bolts. Use of red or blue locktight is also not (NOT) advised. On mine (Shark ProPlus) the lead screws have a flat side to them where you want to set the locking nuts against as well.
Re: Coupling cams loose
Hi
Tnx for the info. I had thought about locktite but wanted to see if just tightning the screws would work. The tightened screws seem to be doing the job so far. Looking at the machine, it sems the stepper motors take all the sideways thrist from the feed screws.
I made a top from 3/4 in burch plywood which I bolted to the factory top to serve as a sacrefical top. I routed T slots every 4 in fot the hold dowms then I took about 1/32 in off the top when I flattened it. The T slots are cracking when I tighten the hold downs. Maybe I am tightning them to much. I will probibly swap the X and Y connectors as has been discissed elsewhere in the forum and when I do I will have to replace the top. I think I might try 3/4 in MDF instead of plywood. I really don't know much about MDF. Is it stronger than plywood? Any thoughts would be welcome.
DickL
Tnx for the info. I had thought about locktite but wanted to see if just tightning the screws would work. The tightened screws seem to be doing the job so far. Looking at the machine, it sems the stepper motors take all the sideways thrist from the feed screws.
I made a top from 3/4 in burch plywood which I bolted to the factory top to serve as a sacrefical top. I routed T slots every 4 in fot the hold dowms then I took about 1/32 in off the top when I flattened it. The T slots are cracking when I tighten the hold downs. Maybe I am tightning them to much. I will probibly swap the X and Y connectors as has been discissed elsewhere in the forum and when I do I will have to replace the top. I think I might try 3/4 in MDF instead of plywood. I really don't know much about MDF. Is it stronger than plywood? Any thoughts would be welcome.
DickL
Re: Coupling cams loose
Hi Dick,
At face value, I'd say you're over tightening. When I first started using a CNC machine I didn't quite understand this until I started to pull up my metal rails (ProPlus). I then got thinking about it, read a little bit on other forums, and came to understand that secure - more than snug perhaps - is different than "locked down". I've found that secure is not locked down as far as I can turn the locking knob - both get me the same results - the material doesn't move while carving.
It sounds like you have a Shark or Shark Pro, and if so I think MDF as your table is more than adequate. I use mdf as a spoil board - it is the same regardless of how much you trim off to make it flat again. With plywood, you run the risk of inconsistencies across the depth as you trim down your spoil board. I find myself doing this periodically as the number of cuts into the board as a result of part cutout toolpaths results in a rough surface - and I run another flattening process. With mdf, the material is the same through the depth. With plywood - even good cabinet grade - you are not guaranteed of that.
The only caution with mdf that I have for you is that it is prone to water absorption. Sometimes at the big box you'll find some that clearly spent some time in the elements.
Hope this helps.
At face value, I'd say you're over tightening. When I first started using a CNC machine I didn't quite understand this until I started to pull up my metal rails (ProPlus). I then got thinking about it, read a little bit on other forums, and came to understand that secure - more than snug perhaps - is different than "locked down". I've found that secure is not locked down as far as I can turn the locking knob - both get me the same results - the material doesn't move while carving.
It sounds like you have a Shark or Shark Pro, and if so I think MDF as your table is more than adequate. I use mdf as a spoil board - it is the same regardless of how much you trim off to make it flat again. With plywood, you run the risk of inconsistencies across the depth as you trim down your spoil board. I find myself doing this periodically as the number of cuts into the board as a result of part cutout toolpaths results in a rough surface - and I run another flattening process. With mdf, the material is the same through the depth. With plywood - even good cabinet grade - you are not guaranteed of that.
The only caution with mdf that I have for you is that it is prone to water absorption. Sometimes at the big box you'll find some that clearly spent some time in the elements.
Hope this helps.
Re: Coupling cams loose
Hi JOe
It helps a lot. I've had my machine about 3 weeks, have never worked with a CNC machine and have done everything wrong at least once sometimes twice. I have a shark not the pro or pro plus. I'm retired and bought the shark because I thought it would be an interesting learning experence. I have a fairly compelete wood working shop set up in my garage. The garage is detached and unheated so I don't use it in the winter - it's just to cold for my bones. I live in centeral Virginia so when it's cold I tend to stay inside, watching TV with a cat on my lap to keep warm. I put the shark in my basement so I will be able to use it all year. I made a table for the shark and a dust comtrol hood to prevent the dust from going all over the house. I have an exaust fan on the dust control hood that seems to a good job colecting the really fine dust. The exaust fan is a bathroom celing fan. The fan outlet right now is an old sock. I am going to make a container that will filter the fan output with a shop vac filter. I'm not sure the filter will work better thain the sock, but it will be a bit more professional.
Joe you have been a great help. keep up the good work. I wonder if the Next Wave folks will add a step function to the jog window? Do they ever show up on the forum?
Tnx again
DickL
It helps a lot. I've had my machine about 3 weeks, have never worked with a CNC machine and have done everything wrong at least once sometimes twice. I have a shark not the pro or pro plus. I'm retired and bought the shark because I thought it would be an interesting learning experence. I have a fairly compelete wood working shop set up in my garage. The garage is detached and unheated so I don't use it in the winter - it's just to cold for my bones. I live in centeral Virginia so when it's cold I tend to stay inside, watching TV with a cat on my lap to keep warm. I put the shark in my basement so I will be able to use it all year. I made a table for the shark and a dust comtrol hood to prevent the dust from going all over the house. I have an exaust fan on the dust control hood that seems to a good job colecting the really fine dust. The exaust fan is a bathroom celing fan. The fan outlet right now is an old sock. I am going to make a container that will filter the fan output with a shop vac filter. I'm not sure the filter will work better thain the sock, but it will be a bit more professional.
Joe you have been a great help. keep up the good work. I wonder if the Next Wave folks will add a step function to the jog window? Do they ever show up on the forum?
Tnx again
DickL