CNC Shark Forum

Thinking about getting the touch plate. Anyone having any luck with it? Right now I just drop the bit to paper and tighten. Works ok but my end mill and vbits don't always work real well doing it that way and it really sucks when one is a little off. I zero on the center and always have to worry about the first nit removing that area. Seems high for a block of metal but I'd buy it if it works properly and consistently

I use it and it seems to work great , nice to have when you change bits.

I guess all the freaky things that may have first been reported are taken care of. Yeah its a little bit high for the materials that you get but remember a lot of what you are paying for is to enable that function in the software, not just the materials. Personally, I feel my money is better spent in other ways, so I haven't bought it yet, but may try it someday. I just don't have that much trouble zeroing the bit initially or on a bit change.

Roger

Ok seems that it is working properly. On my list of things to get now

They have greatly improved the functionality of the Touch Plate since it first came out. I personally rely on mine for every job. I also thought the price was high once I saw what I'd bought, but Rockler sets the prices (according to what NWA told me) and compared to the same tech for other CNCs it's a good value.

Just don't forget to attach the magnet each time you use it.

I use mine all the time.
It takes guess work out of the equation.
Great when changing bits.
Just move to xyz 0, change bit, reset z.

I use it whenever I do a bit change or initially set Z0. Works perfectly every time.

Picked up the dust boot and touch plate last weekend but haven't had a chance to try them out. Got a few orders in the other day so will give them a go this week.

milo30 wrote:Picked up the dust boot and touch plate last weekend but haven't had a chance to try them out. Got a few orders in the other day so will give them a go this week.

I am a newcomer to CNC so I hope that someone with more experience chimes in on this. The instructions for the Mako Shark says to push the router all of the way down into the clamp before tightening this clamp. I find that this generally places the end of the bit far below the bristles of the vacuum brush assembly. I therefore have to raise the router until the ends of the bristles are somewhat near the end of the router bit. This allows the bristles to contact the surface of the workpiece in order for the vacuum to work. Otherwish chips fly everywhere.

Good luck with you new brush and z-touch.

Ed

Ed, I found the same problem as I did the first test cut today on an HD 2.0. The dust boot was useless using the V-bit that came with the machine, and my router isn't even all the way down in the clamp. I left about 1/2" of the exposed cylinder showing.

Here's an idea for NextWave: Instead of a fixed position how about using longer bolts and a spring mount configuration? The bolts would be fixed and tight, but the boot would be able to slide up and down on them. As it hit the top of the surface the back pressure would slide it up on the bolts. Springs may not even be needed, although there would still need to be a way to remove the boot completely for changing bits.