Real dovetails on a CNC?

[OakBrook]

I do dovetail work I just purchased this! It works fantastic!!! http://www.generaltools.com/Products/EZ ... __860.aspx

[dggt6]

Hello,
I have only done a few dovetail joints on a dovetail jig with a hand held router but the difference between using a 1/4" shank bit and a Leigh brand 8mm shank was amazing. The noise from the 1/4" sounded like it was going to break, but the 8mm in the same router and timber sounded correct and "solid".
I only mention this as the Bosch router only takes a 1/4" shank.

Using the CNC you will be able to slow the cutting speed to reduce the "chatter" from the 1/4" bit, but will it be too slow and burn?

Just my two cents worth,
Cheers,
Doug

[emersonma]

Haven't had my CNC Shark Pro long enough to advise on how to use it. However, it was the kitchen cabinet customizing that convinced my wife to increase my allowance to save up for the Shark Pro and I imagine that would have worked for the shark pro plus. Now that I have the shark I guess I'll have to buy her a house and move out of this apartment. On the other hand, it is always better to ask for fogiveness then to be told "no" Well maybe not in all cases.

Mark

[waynevan]

Thanks for your thoughts Bobby.

I've seen this done on another CNC machine and it appeared to be within the design limits of the Shark Pro Plus. I agree you would be very close to the Y limits even if you moved the entire table to the the very edge and rotated the gantry 180 degrees. This was of similar concern with the other machine however there was just enough room to accomplish the task with material around 1 inch thick. I've not seen the table extension you speak of so if you have a part number and know the company who carries it, that would be helpful too. I was thinking the addition of a single piece of multitrack cut to about 28 inches and attached on the end of the unit would be enough vertical surface area to support the material plus the slots would give you the ability to use off the shelf clamps to hold the material securely as well as providing an attachment point for a reference block for repeated cuts. I'm sure there will be costs associated with this type of modification, however my first hurdle is to determine if it is within the design limits of the pro plus.

For those of you who have a Shark Pro Plus, I would like to know how far the head travels beyond the edge of the metal frame that supports the top to see if there is enough room before you hit the Y axis limits. If there is at least 2" over travel beyond the edge of the base, I think it will work. I only ned 3/4" for the multi track, another 3/4" for the material plus 1/2" for bit clearance. Of course, more would be better. Other wise, I guess it's a moot point.

For me this is a deal breaker so any information would be very helpful.

What if you made a smaller table out of mdf?

[mlgraetz]

I've got the Pro Plus HD with a 2hp 1/2" shank Bosch router on it. The HD with the larger router mount may have a little more overhang capability than the smaller router models. I have at least 2" from extreme Y axis bit centerline to the edge of the frame. By sliding most of the table T slot extrusions forward and a couple of them toward the back, then creating a mounting fence with some 2-1/4" multi track from Rockler (the same multi track used for the table) to hold long pieces end up, I have been able to cut precision tenons with my Shark, and even sliding dovetail joints.

With the Y axis stepper motor there is room do do about a 9" wide board. If it were possible to move the Y axis stepper motor to the back there would be room for up to about 22" width boards.
Has anyone done this? Is it as easy as swapping end plates on the frame and reversing leads on the stepper motor?

-Thanks,
-Mike G

[jeb2cav]

Hi Mike - I haven't done this - but I have reversed my gantry (no X is Y and vice versa). I wonder if you would get the same kind of clearance on the side opposite the motor if you reversed your gantry? That way you wouldn't have to think about, let alone try, reversing the motor location.

[sk8nmike]

When I originally assembled my Shark I put the gantry on backwards just so I could cut dovetails and other more decorative joints. Only one problem, all of your text will carve backwards. I believe the same would happen with swapping the motor location. I looked into reversing the motor but it's hard wired in the control box and hasn’t decided to open the motor yet.

Update..

I was looking at my Shark today and thinking about reversing motors and realized that if you reverse that gantry and move the motor to the other side of the gantry is should allow you to move the router past the end of the bed and still have your text carve the correct way. I'm in the middle of a big project or would have swapped it over. I should be about to swap it later this week. I'll post when I do.