Pro to HD upgrades

Discussion about the CNC Shark Pro Plus

Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon

FixitMike
Posts: 119
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:16 pm
Location: Renton, WA

Re: X axis flatness

Post by FixitMike »

I made some adjustments and measurements after incorporating the X axis retrofit on my Pro Plus. It now is flat on the X axis within .004".

The table extrusions are mounted on 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8" angles instead of the original plastic strip.

The Y axis, however moves down .030" just from the weight of the gantry in the center of travel. I can grab the Y support shafts with my hand and easily move the head up/down another .030".
Guess I'll have to make the Y axis retrofit, too.

Measurements were made using one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-MAGNETIC- ... 4606007c5d I have found it to be almost as easy to use as a zero axis setting plate, and it can be used to check the table flatness.
Attachments
Replacement angle supporting table top.
Replacement angle supporting table top.

FixitMike
Posts: 119
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:16 pm
Location: Renton, WA

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by FixitMike »

My upgrade is now complete. The unit is much more rigid. I'll post the measurements of table flatness when I put the table back on.
P1040559.JPG
P1040563.JPG

4DThinker
Posts: 951
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:00 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by 4DThinker »

I've now received the blue t-track necessary to upgrade my MDF bed to a t-track bed. Eight 3" pieces and two 2.25" pieces. Had to buy some 1.5"x1.5" steel angle for the ends, Twenty .5" x 1/4"d hex bolts and lock nuts. Eight 1.25" hex bolts with lock nuts to bolt the angle to the plastic base ends. BTW, for the t-track any old 1/4" hex bolt won't do. They need to have 3/16" thick heads and not the 1/8" thick heads most come with today else they'll spin in the track when you try to tighten them.

I've used the router with a 1/4" pin in it to make the front angle parallel to the X travel. Set the pin bottom at the height I wanted the angle to be at, then simply lifted the angle until it hit the pin before drilling the mounting hole for it. I did that above each of 4 holes along the length of the angle.

I made some strips of HDPE to slide between and link each t-track section. This doesn't do a perfect job of keeping them from lifting when clamping across sections, but it helps. I'm thinking about adding a steel strip bolted across/under the tracks at mid point to better link them. Rockler should make short extruded pieces to fit across two horizontal t-tracks IMO. They could be pushed in from the ends, say to the middle and 1/4 -3/4 positions to link the tracks. Close tolerance but not too tight to prevent sliding down the track.

I'll post a photo or two once it is all done. Waiting on the right hex bolts now.

4D

BillK
Posts: 885
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:08 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by BillK »

4D,

The only thing I'd watch out for using a mix of materials is the coefficient of thermal expansion. Aluminum's is twice that of steel's. HDPE is 10 times that of aluminum. If your machine is in a temperature controlled room, not a big issue. However if you can experience a 20 degree F swing in temperature you may notice some strange happenings.
BillK
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4DThinker
Posts: 951
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:00 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by 4DThinker »

Thanks for that info, BillK. The garage my Shark is in has a window AC to keep it at 75 or so in the summer. It's also getting new insulated doors before winter hits, and I keep a space heater out there with a thermostatic control to make sure it doesn't go below 50. Never had any noticeable problems with the Shark before this update. I may go back and slot out the outer bolt holes where the steel angles are attached to the vertical HDPE front and back. Other than that the aluminum tracks are each separately bolted to the steel but if they shrink it'll just open up a little gap between them. The black HDPE strips I slid between them mean I'll probably never even notice.

My Shark primarily just gets used in the summer when I'm not teaching, although I'll occasionally boot it up to cut out a project part or a jig for a student. When it gets really cold I bring the PC in and don't mess with my Shark until it warms up again. I have a Shark HD 2.0 as well as a large Multicam CNC to use at the University. Both are in climate controlled spaces.

4D

rungemach
Posts: 460
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 am
Location: Sarasota, Florida

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by rungemach »

Hello Mike

Very good job on the Y axis conversion.
Did ou use 1/2 inch thick aluminum angle? It just looks thicker than my 3/8 x 6 x 6.
I like the outer reinforcing bars on the gantry sides as well.
your shark should have less flex than a HD now, and you can raise your gantry higher if you need to without concern for strength.

You are one of the few brave souls to do the y axis so far and it turned out great.

Bob

4DThinker
Posts: 951
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:00 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by 4DThinker »

My new controller arrived today, along with my old motors that now have the updated plugs on them. Got it all together and it looks like the scale variable is off by 10 or so. FAST jog movements appear to be about as fast as SLOW movements were with my original controller. Old projects I've been testing (air-cutting) aren't moving the router anywhere near as far or fast as the old controller would run them.

One questions is this: Is there a specific controller available for the Pro Plus (white plastic, MDF top, Bosch router, original 2-part black plastic controller/seperate power supply)?
Second Question: Is there a scale variable that can be set/changed anywhere in the controller app?

The controller they sent me looks (on the outside at least) exactly like the controller that came with the Shark HD 2.0.

I wanted an updated controller to bring router power and E-stop to my Shark, which the original controller didn't provide.

Thanks
4D

rungemach
Posts: 460
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 am
Location: Sarasota, Florida

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by rungemach »

4D

Since NWA changed the pitch of the lead screws on the newer models, it is likely you have a box set for the newer machines,
which would turn the lead screw slower than your original shark.

I believe that would be a factor of 2 as the old lead screws were 4 turns per inch and the new ones I believe are 2 turns per inch.
That setting is adjustable, but perhaps not by the user. It may be that they shipped you a box not configured properly for your machine.

You will most likely need to call NWA on that one.

4DThinker
Posts: 951
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:00 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by 4DThinker »

Thanks, Rungemach. I've email NWA Support, but will give them a chance to wake up this morning before getting back to me.

I drew a 2" square then profile cut around it. The resulting square was about 5/16" square by my tape measure, or .3040 by my digital caliper. Roughly 15 percent of what it should have been. The touch plate worked (s l o w l y) but since the distance per step is off didn't return to the board top when moving to Home. Had to set Z=0 manually. I'll guess even the bit radius offset is screwed up, so won't bet on the exact percentage things are off. I sure hope this can be fixed with a firmware download or at least a switch inside the controller. No scale/step options I could find in the Control Panel seem to relate to the controller itself. Hoping I don't have to return it, but guessing I will. The motors now have new cable ends on them, so I can't simply put my old controller back in place.

Update: NWA wanted to know the model number of my old controller. You can find this in the Help:About popup in the control panel. Plugged the old controller into the PC and came up with a number. Not sure this is the route to a fix though, as the new controller reports the same number.

Update 2: Turns out there is an option to bring up a window with step values/mm on each axis as well as several other variables. Not sure if it is good or bad, but the values my old controller lists are the same as what my new controller lists. Suggests they have the new controller programmed "right", but there is something else going on that is preventing the motors from moving the right amount with each signal. I sent my motors to them and they changed out the plug ends to fit the jacks on the new controller. Wondering if the cables are wired wrong.

4DThinker
Posts: 951
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:00 am

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by 4DThinker »

Although it took them a couple hours to figure it out, NWA support deserves a pat on the back for getting my new controller running right with my old steppers and old Shark Plus Pro.
The process involved running a small app they sent me to change the model number of the new controller. Now when I compare the step values there is about a 5x increase over what my old controller reports, and my 2" square test file actually cut out a 2" square.

Delighted to have router power control as well as that e-stop switch now. I also have the top now switched to all-blue rockler t-track. The new controller has the 4th axis jack as well, so if I ever invest in an add-on that requires it I'll be ready.

Thanks again to Rockler Support, and Sara in particular.
4D

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