I just modified the exsisting table top with T-Track.
Used 3/4" particle board, Layed out 1/2 of table top in Aspire Version 3.0.
Flipped orginal top over and cut out for T-Track( 3/4"w x 1/2"d).
It works like a champ.I have 3/8" of table top to do complete cut thru material with no worrys of hitting track
Now the Shark Pro allows me the same clamping area as the Shark and more.
I now have a CNC Shark for sale.
Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
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- NewAgent45
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
- Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
I'm very new to CNC and don't have my machine yet. From your pictures it appears you installed the T-track by flexing the track and inserted into the slot where the holes are making the installation blind. Is this the case? If so what brand ot T-travk was used and how flexable is it?
Thanks!
Rod
Thanks!
Rod
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
No he used two boards. Sounds like particle board as a base and pocketed the t-track into it, then took his original MDF and cut thru that to give access to the t-track. The track is actually mounted on the bottom board and he has access to it for clamping through his sacrificial top board protecting the tracks from getting cut. I did something similar. I was unhappy with the flex in the 3/4" MDF so I glued another 3/4" on top of it which made it very rigid. I leveled that then cut 3/4" MDF into about 3 or 4" strips on the table saw and attached that on top.
The upside is if I want t-tracks in the gaps I can use them and never damage them. When any of the strips start getting cut up from use, I can replace with another strip rather than having to purchase an entire sheet of MDF. The table is now 2.25" thick and has no flex in it at all. I can probably stand on it without having a problem. Cheaper to replace sections.
The down side is that I lost 1.5" of clearance Z clearance which isn't important to me as I don't do any 3d carvings. I have to watch the rear clamps with the router carriage as it is now closer to the table. I could lift it or just use a different clamp to avoid problems but I actually prefer screws to clamps so it works for me.
I could have eliminated the center MDF board and not have any issues but I wanted it really firm. I have attached a couple of pictures to show you my setup. I spaced the top slats to match the t-tracks so I could just drop them in place and screw them down if I wanted to use them. I had 2 laying around so I put them on just to experiment. I'll actually be removing them and using for something else.
The upside is if I want t-tracks in the gaps I can use them and never damage them. When any of the strips start getting cut up from use, I can replace with another strip rather than having to purchase an entire sheet of MDF. The table is now 2.25" thick and has no flex in it at all. I can probably stand on it without having a problem. Cheaper to replace sections.
The down side is that I lost 1.5" of clearance Z clearance which isn't important to me as I don't do any 3d carvings. I have to watch the rear clamps with the router carriage as it is now closer to the table. I could lift it or just use a different clamp to avoid problems but I actually prefer screws to clamps so it works for me.
I could have eliminated the center MDF board and not have any issues but I wanted it really firm. I have attached a couple of pictures to show you my setup. I spaced the top slats to match the t-tracks so I could just drop them in place and screw them down if I wanted to use them. I had 2 laying around so I put them on just to experiment. I'll actually be removing them and using for something else.
- NewAgent45
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
- Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
MIlo30, I'm sorry for the delayed reply. I discovered I had something wrong in my profile setting and didn't see any replys. I'm catching up on my posts this morning.
Thanks for the advice and the pictures. I really like your spoil board approach of using strips. The only thing I might need is to ad another T-track to accomidate smaller projects.
You mentioned the use of screws. Are you using screws to mount some of your projects? I can see that this would be fine for some of my planned projects.
Thanks!
Rod
Thanks for the advice and the pictures. I really like your spoil board approach of using strips. The only thing I might need is to ad another T-track to accomidate smaller projects.
You mentioned the use of screws. Are you using screws to mount some of your projects? I can see that this would be fine for some of my planned projects.
Thanks!
Rod
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
I just make sure my material is an inch or two larger than needed, drill the hole and then screw it into the mdf. By drilling , then screwing it won't split and seats flat on the mdf. After removing, the mdf will have a small bulge at hole and I just give it a scrape with a cabinet scraper to flatten. I never have to worry about clamp positions and I know it will never move.
Use brass screws if you are worried and if wrong the bit will just cut through and keep going. 99.9% of everything I do is screwed down. With my setup, if I wanted to change the track locations I could by more tracks or just unscrew it and move it to another slot
Use brass screws if you are worried and if wrong the bit will just cut through and keep going. 99.9% of everything I do is screwed down. With my setup, if I wanted to change the track locations I could by more tracks or just unscrew it and move it to another slot
- NewAgent45
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
- Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
This thread is great help for setup or improving the table top on a machine with MDF base table. What would be your recommendations for a machine with Aluminum T-Slot top like the Shark HD – Rockler item # 39500? I’m leaving this as an open question because of different material mounting scenarios from mounting/clamping wood and also thin materials like thin acrylic sheet for lithopanes.
I like the T-slot top which gives you multiple clamp anchor points. If you just simply cover this with a thick base material like MDF you are hiding the T-slots.
One way I can see is to mount strips of MDF as a spoil board with spaces to expose the T-slots. Then you could surface plane to true the mounting surface.
Will the T-slots on the table accomidate a standard size nut to be used with brass flathead machine screws to aanchor the spoil boards?
For lithopanes a separate fixture could be built. I think I saw where someone on the forum build one using bench dogs. But I can't seem to find it.
I’m new to this and welcome all comments. I know this is changing the original subject to HD machines. I though it would be the right place for discussing table modifications.
..... Rod
I like the T-slot top which gives you multiple clamp anchor points. If you just simply cover this with a thick base material like MDF you are hiding the T-slots.
One way I can see is to mount strips of MDF as a spoil board with spaces to expose the T-slots. Then you could surface plane to true the mounting surface.
Will the T-slots on the table accomidate a standard size nut to be used with brass flathead machine screws to aanchor the spoil boards?
For lithopanes a separate fixture could be built. I think I saw where someone on the forum build one using bench dogs. But I can't seem to find it.
I’m new to this and welcome all comments. I know this is changing the original subject to HD machines. I though it would be the right place for discussing table modifications.
..... Rod
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
There are posts on reenforcing the aluminum top. I would post another thread asking for more details. There is also the 2.0 software to compensate for it if you go that route. I know its done by many I just haven't read how they do it as it doesn't apply to my machine
- Consultingwoodworker
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 7:37 am
- Location: Nashville area
- Contact:
Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"
I have the original Shark Pro, MDF stock bed.
I simply cut a piece of 3/4" MDF to 22" square, cut a series of t-slots into it 4" center to center, and bolted it on top of the stock bed using nylon bolts.
It allows for clamping and I made it 22" square so that I could plane the top with the router. Planing it makes it absolutely parallel to the plane of the head, eliminating any issues with the bed not being totally flat.
I like the t-slot idea shown above, but cutting the t-slots into the MDF means that I can replace it quickly and I expensively as needed.
Ralph
I simply cut a piece of 3/4" MDF to 22" square, cut a series of t-slots into it 4" center to center, and bolted it on top of the stock bed using nylon bolts.
It allows for clamping and I made it 22" square so that I could plane the top with the router. Planing it makes it absolutely parallel to the plane of the head, eliminating any issues with the bed not being totally flat.
I like the t-slot idea shown above, but cutting the t-slots into the MDF means that I can replace it quickly and I expensively as needed.
Ralph