CNC Shark Forum

I'm a woodworker not a sign maker but alas I've been asked to make a sign, and for compensation no less, now that I have a CNC machine. Compensation gives me a nice warm feeling. I've made about a bazillion projects in wood over the years but not one carved sign. Imagine. Anyway, I really have no problem with the Shark software and getting my lettering onto the wood just how I want it. That just kind of fell right into place with no troubles at all. The person wanting this sign wants the lettering engraved first of all so I can make it from the VCarve program. No raised lettering. But they want the engraved lettering to be red and the rest of the sign surface to be white. Now with all of my woodworking experience for some dumb reason I just can't wrap my brain around a trick for making that happen without having to paint each letter with a small artists brush. I know there must be simpler and smarter ways of doing this. Can someone give me the proper steps for this? If it matters I'll be using 1x12x3/4 and the lettering will be 2" tall with typical width based on that height. I'm gonna bet when I see the answer I'm gonna slap my forehead but hey, I'm already knocking my head up against the wall anyway.

But first let me tell you what my noodle has come up with. I haven't tried it. Only thought of it. I thought that maybe I can go ahead and cut my boards to the proper sizes before machining. Then give them their primo white paint job and make them look nice. Then attach a thin piece of panel something in the order of 1/8" paneling actually and cut it to the same sizes of my boards. Then attach the piece of 1/8 to the top of my painted finish making sure somehow it doesn't move. Taking the board with the thin panel on top of it and loading it into the machine and when setting my Z zero I set it to the surface of the board not the surface of the panel. Then it will engrave to the proper depth into the board that I originally planned and it will carve right through the piece of 1/8 panel. (Hope I haven't lost you) Now, leaving the piece of panel on top of the newly engraved board I would spray paint the red lettering through what has become a stencil of sorts and the paint shouldn't get onto the white board beneath the panel. Take off the panel, and POOF, a sign with red letters and white surface. Now, after I awoke from that dream I thought of how complicated that all sounded and decided to ask you guys about it first. After you quit laughing at my supposed technique you can give your answer. hahaha.

Thanks as always,
Mike

Why use 1/8" ply?
After painting or staining I use clear vinyl shelf liner as a mask to cut through then paint or stain over it into the letters then peel of the mask.

WoodEraser wrote:Why use 1/8" ply?
After painting or staining I use clear vinyl shelf liner as a mask to cut through then paint or stain over it into the letters then peel of the mask.

OF COURSE!! See? I'm slapping my forehead already. But at least I guess I was right to an extent but wrong on what to use.

One further question back at ya if you don't mind. Any good reason for it being clear? And what method of sticking or fastening it to your project board? Is it self adhesive?

Thanks again,
Mike

The clear just makes it easier to see what's underneath and allows you to see if it's adhered well. It's basically clear contact paper just like what's used in kitchen cabinets. Just make sure your bits are sharp.

Thanks to both of you guys. I appreciate it lots. Seems you have both done this before so I'm sure that the "stick" is kind of mild so as to not pull up the finish. I don't think that will happen. I put my finishes on rather well and properly so I'm sure it will release.
OK, off to the shop.
Thanks again,

Mike

In case you have not thought of it, when I use the shelf liner, I use a plastic putty knive and go over the whole surface pressing the liner into the boare. This makes sure that it is stuck well all over. At first, I had problems with the liner seperating sometimes close to where the router bit was cutting.
Sam

When you use the plastic liner, it is a good investment to buy a hard edge roller like the wallpaper hangers use.
It really pushes the edges down and cannot accidentally tear it loose like a spatula can and the liner can still come off easily.

Cheerds
Wolffie

Thanks for all the tips thus far. I have just one more pertaining to applying the contact paper. I'm an instruction reader because I always figured that the manufacturer of a product knew way much more about their product than I do. Anyway, I read in there that your supposed to apply a coat of shellac or laquer first if you are putting the paper down onto latex paint. Have any of you had to deal with that aspect or is that something we can ignore. I don't know if they say that because it creates a smooth surface for stickiing OR if the paper adhesive will pull up your paint if it's latex. I was just ready to apply it and figured I better ask the pro's.

Mike

Mike,

I think that the main reason is to keep the paint or stencil ink from leaching out to errors you do not wish to color. Also, it is easier to clean off if you do.

Bob

BobA wrote:Mike,

I think that the main reason is to keep the paint or stencil ink from leaching out to errors you do not wish to color. Also, it is easier to clean off if you do.

Bob

Bob, I appreciate you but I think you might have missed something in my question/statement. The instructions that are printed on the contact paper itself tell us that if we are going to stick the paper onto a latex painted surface that we should first apply a coat of shellac or laquer. The makers have no idea whether I'm stenciling or just lining my drawers.

Mike